Three very different experience in the space of one week in Latin America.
My name is Joe Harrington; I’m travelling through Central and South America for the next eight months, here’s what happened on week nine.
Next stop: Panama City, Panama
The bus journey from Bocas Del Toro to Panama City took 10 hours which was a bit of a long slog and cold because of the air conditioning but it got us there safe at 5am in the morning.
Myself and three randomers I met on the bus took a taxi to Luna’s Castle Hostel, the most popular backpacker spot in the city, and crashed on a couch until 9am.
When I woke up, my stay there took a turn.
I’ve been travelling with an English guy called Daniel on and off for about a month now and he sprung a huge surprise on us in Panama City.
He isn’t short of a few bob so he decided to treat himself to a few nights in the 5* Trump Towers Hotel before we all went on our San Blas tour.
Daniel invited me and our Fijian buddy Linda over for the afternoon to use pool. We were giddy because our combined daily budget wouldn’t buy us a bottle of water there.
The place is so swish. I felt like a piece of shit walking into the lobby in my Sunday Funday top, short-shorts and massive culchie Irish head but I got over it quickly and settled in for a day of comfort.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BF64cB4mHUG
As we were laying there overlooking the infinity pool (my douchiest sentence ever), Daniel went upstairs to do something. He arrived back down 20 minutes later with room keys and told us he’d booked us all in for two nights.
WTactualF?! So generous.
The next two days were like a dream after spending the previous two months taking cold showers and sleeping in hammocks, tents, couches, buses and dorm beds.
I know that’s what I signed up for by going on the trip but a bit of proper comfort was amazing. That awful Champions League Final was even a joy to watch because of the place.
The funny thing about staying there was that I couldn’t afford anything they had on their menu so I survived by not eating and going to the local supermarket. Mostly not eating. A real baller I am.
Panama City is completely different to anywhere else in Central America, it felt like we were in Miami or a similar American city.
The highlights are the Panama Canal, Casca Viejo for a stroll and eating at the fish market. There’s not loads to do there so two or three days should be plenty of time.
Accommodation: Trump Towers, if you have loads of cash.
Luna’s Castle was great during the time I spent there. They have nice dorms for €14 per night (includes breakfast).
Food: The Fish Market.
Drink: I had a few beers at Luna’s Castle but it was all very tame during my time there.
Highlight: Staying in a 5* for the first time.
Lowlight: The 5* hotel being owned by Donald Trump.
Next stop: San Blas Island, Panama
The San Blas Islands trip was something I’d be looking forward to the most since I booked my flights for this whole trip and it didn’t disappoint.
San Blas is made up of over 300 islands off the coast of Panama with 49 of those islands inhabited by indigenious people from Colombia and Panama called Kunas.
The Kuna people were driven from the mainland during the Spanish invasion in the 1500s and settled on the islands. More on them later.
My San Blas Adventure group was made up of two guides, four Kunas and 27 backpackers including my pals Daniel and the Dutch duo of Flores and Suz.
Our plan was to visit two islands every day, one to chill out and the other to sleep on and to meet the Kunas and get to know their way of life.
Here’s the first tiny island we visited on day one. I walked across it in 90 seconds, a tiny piece of heaven just for us.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BGKTP-6GHSc
The day was passed getting to know the group, teaching a few lads the rules of Gaelic Football, eating fresh fish, having a few beers and snorkelling.
The second island was a little bit bigger. It had five or six huts with our hammocks for the night’s sleep, a volleyball area and a few more little huts filled with around 15 to 20 Kunas.
We spent the night around the bonfire listening to music, telling travel stories and swimming in the bioluminescent water. It was so cool.
Here’s me casually brushing my teeth the following morning, I love the colour torquoise. I actually didn’t know that photo was being taken.
We hopped back on the boat and set off on a two hour journey to the next island which was another secluded paradise.
An interesting thing about that island is that it’s directly across from the Darien Gap jungle which is where 80% of the world’s cocaine is smuggled from, according to our guide.
It’s considered one of the most dangerous places in the world and we were only a few kilometres away on our peaceful little island. It was chilling.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BGKUV2dmHU8/?taken-by=imjoeharrington
The lowpoint of that day was when myself and Flores took a stroll into the jungle on our island. We were about 30 metres in when we were swarmed with mosquitos, they destroyed us.
I got about 30 bites and he got 20 as we hurried out and dived into the water for relief. I hate those bastards so much, but they seem to love me. It’s so annoying.
We moved on to one of the biggest islands in San Blas for the night. It wasn’t near as beautiful as the others but the place and people were incredible.
Here’s a photo from our boat when we were arriving.
Our guide Luis took us on a tour of the village and it was honestly one of the most heart-warming experiences of my life.
He took us down the main street where we were greeted by dozens of children who wanted high-fives, hugs or any interaction with us and their smiles were beaming when we responded.
60% + of the islands population is made up of children because expressing sexuality and its urges is encouraged from a very early age so girls as young at 13 are having kids. It’s so surreal.
The main street just before our tour started
We walked slowly around the village and watched them played volleyball (they were incredible), play football, sew garments, refurbish huts, prepare dinner and carry on with normal life.
Our Dutch friend Suz was a real favourite of the kids, they swarmed her and wouldn’t let her up. It was hilarious.
The toilet situation on the island was pretty basic with a hole in a raised platform over the water for your business while the shower was a jug of fresh cold water from a barrel. I loved it.
Day three was more of the same, first stop was a quiet island for us to chill out for the day.
We played a game of football, I almost cut off the top of my right index finger with a can, we ate a delicious tuna salad and soaked in the sunshine on a white beach.
The last island was a big one similar to the night before so it was a similar vibe. We had a super party that night with everyone ending up on the end of the pier drinking some beers and chatting as lightning filled the sky.
The group was actually really cool, everyone was so respectful of the Kunas and everyone liked to party but nobody was an asshole. We got lucky.
San Blas Adventures costs: €430 for tour, Kuna entrance fee and a 4×4 to the coast. Bring an extra €200 for alcohol, water and travel once you get to Colombia.
Next stop: The Colombian Border
Up at 7am to get a boat to La Miel, which is a no man’s land between Panama and Colombia, that’s where we needed to get our exited stamp for Panama.
It took two hours to get there and the passport stamping process took around an hour. I came down with a touch of flu that morning so I wasn’t feeling the best but it was pretty smooth.
Then the rain started. FML.
We got on boat as it started to get heavy. Our next stop was Sapzurro in Colombia, it took about 20 minutes and we were all soaked to the skin when we arrived.
We waited there for 30 minutes to let the rain die down, it didn’t, so back on the boat and off to Capurgana.
That leg of the trip was awful, lashing rain and rough seas, I never felt in massive danger but I wasn’t 100% confident we’d make it in one piece. We did, thankfully.
Capurgana is a cool seaside town where you get your Colombia entry stamp and the San Blas Adventure group spends its final night together.
I didn’t go out because of that damn flu but the rest of the group had a huge party.
The Colombia-cocaine legend was quickly cemented as the gang said they were offered bags for €7 on loads of occasions during the night. That shit cray.
Next stop: Cartagena, Colombia
A package trip from Capurgana to Cartagena cost €50, you’ll find people around town who will help you book, but watch out for the extras. We had to pay €5 extra at the dock for baggage weight and a “construction tax.”
A boat first took us to Turbo, that took two hours. We picked up some locals in the middle of the water which seemed sketchy for a second but it was grand.
In Turbo a lady is there to meet you with your bus ticket to Cartagena. The bus is supposed to take somewhere between 8 and 10 hours.
Our journey took 12 and a half because of this.
Currently stuck on a bus in Colombia after driving into local protestors. We've been assured everything will be ok https://t.co/G1AbF4UjnJ
— Joe Harrington (@ImJoeHarrington) June 3, 2016
I was sitting beside a local man in the front seat of the bus and when he started praying I started to get very worried.
Overall, we sat there for about two hours in the middle of nowhere in north Colombia at night time. Not on TripAdvisor’s most recommended.
The local man beside me explained what was happening.
All ok. They, mostly teenagers between 14 & 17, barricaded the road with spikes on the ground. Protest about lack of payment for something.
— Joe Harrington (@ImJoeHarrington) June 3, 2016
My Spanish isn't great but I think it was a type of government grant for the fisherman here that hasn't come through yet. #SqueakyBum
— Joe Harrington (@ImJoeHarrington) June 3, 2016
We arrived in Cartagena at 11:30pm and checked into our hostel, Media Luna, and crashed.
Myself, Daniel, Flores and Suz did a bit of exploring this morning and we’re going to the main square tonight (Friday) to watch Colombia vs USA in the Copa America on a big screen.
Welcome to Colombia.
If you’ve any tips, advice or questions, let me know on Twitter at @ImJoeHarrington or Instagram/ImJoeHarrington.
Talk to you next week.
Read more:
Diary #2 – Miami, Guatemala City, Antigua
Diary #3 – Antigua, Lake Atitlan
Diary #4 – El Salvador
Diary #5 – El Salvador, Leon, Nicaragua
Diary #6 – Volcano boarding, Laguna De Apoyo, Granada
Diary #7 – The volcanos of Ometepe and Sunday Funday in San Juan
Diary #8 – Monteverde and Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica
Diary #9 – Bocas del Toro, Panama City
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