We’re not quite ready for the Rás just yet, but everyone should get on their bike and try the superbly designed and executed Greenway cycle path in Mayo.
‘Sean, would you like to cycle across the wilds of Mayo?’ Normally, as a lazy, desk-bound slob my first thought would be a definite ‘no’ but as the question was posed during the middle of the World Cup, a period where I barely saw daylight for almost a month, it sounded like a great idea.
Fast forward a few weeks and there I was, in stunning Mulranny, being handed a helmet, a high-vis vest and being told that I had to get to Westport along the Greenway, a dedicated cycle path that winds its way through 42km of stunning scenery. A few hours later I was tucking into a pint in Matt Molloy’s, the happiest man in the place.
Ireland’s Atlantic coast has a deserved reputation as one of the best tourist areas in the world. From west Cork, via Kerry, Clare, Galway and all the way up to Donegal, that stretch is stuffed to the gills with beautiful places to see and great towns to spend some time in. Mayo can, in some quarters, get overlooked but the addition of the Greenway means it really should become a must stop along the lines of the Ring of Kerry or the Cliffs of Moher.
After getting the train to Westport I popped into Clew Bay Bike Hire, who explained the options available to me. I could just hire a bike and set off and they would pick me up at one of three points (Newport, Mulranny or Achill), I could set off and bring the bike back myself if I fancied doing a round trip or they would drive me out to one of the stops and I could cycle back.
Achill is truly a stunning place but knowing the limits of my office-withered limbs I decided to go for the Mulranny to Westport option, a 29km spin.
Now we know there are many of you out there who do triathlons who would think nothing of a much further cycle than that on your average Tuesday night but for someone who was last on a bike when the punt was still in circulation, the distance seemed to stretch out like a Tour de France stage.
Luckily, I had nothing to worry about. The Greenway is simply a fantastic experience, regardless of fitness or cycling skill. The age range of cyclists you meet along the way, from five to 65, tells you that straight away and bar the odd, small, uphill bits it is as gentile a journey as you can imagine.
What makes it is the scenery. The below picture is a view of Mulranny beach just minutes after you start, the sort of view that nourishes you far more than any amount energy gels.
Along the 18km track to Newport you are surrounded by sheep, rocks, cottages and every other west of Ireland stereotype, but in their natural setting, not a manufactured version you find elsewhere. It really is a great way to see the Irish countryside.
Largely following the disused Westport to Achill rail line, which closed in 1937, you gently wind your way to Newport, a charming town that features a 19th century red sandstone viaduct.
After a very un-cyclist like pick-me-up of tea, a scone and some jam (they were out of EPO, I asked) at Kelly’s Kitchen, it was back on the bike for the final leg to Westport. Following the N59, I found myself back in Westport far sooner than I thought, a little tired but elated at completing the trip.
With the bike dropped back at the shop, the only thing to do was head to the famed Matt Molloy’s for a restorative pint.
Westport, of course, has no shortage of pubs to visit but Matt Molloy’s remains the pick of the bunch, with a great trad session on every night. Across the road I ate at the superb An Port Mor, surely the home of the finest seafood in Ireland. I left stuffed with some of the best produce the west of Ireland had to offer. Hey, I had earned it after all.
As I said, the Greenway is accessible and within the capabilities of anyone. My only regret was that I didn’t go all the way to Achill and do the full trip, but I’ll be back.
If you’re more of a thrill seeker, the options from Westport are vast. In the town is Westport House, where everything from zorbing to zip wires are available to try while only 30 minutes out the road, in neighbouring Galway is Killary Adventure Centre.
There you can kayak in the fjord, bungee jump, take an assault course, try your hand at water skiing or wakeboarding or any number of other adrenaline fuelled pursuits. Seriously, you won’t be stuck for things to do.
If you prefer more gentile stuff then Westport has a multitude of great places to eat, such as The Helm down on the Quay, while the accommodation on offer is of a superb standard. I stayed in the Westport Plaza, right in the middle of the town and very handy for the lads at Clew Bay Bike Hire.
If you fancy getting away from your air-conditioned office and your phone for a few days, you really can’t go wrong with an active trip to Westport. You’ll return revitalised, refreshed and with a new found love of what this country can offer, whether you like to take things slow, or very fast indeed.
For more on Westport, its surrounds and what activities are on offer, check out this Discover Ireland link
While you’re in the mood for adventure, the Adventure Travel World Summit is on in Killarney this year. Adventure is not just for the adrenaline junkies out there – it covers a whole host of exciting and relaxing activities from walking, hiking, kayaking, sailing, fishing, bird watching, cycling, horse riding… the list is endless. It’s not all about the wilder stuff but also about just hitting the outdoors and enjoying a fun and often easy activity or challenging yourself to something you haven’t tried before. And there are heaps of activities out there tailored to be family friendly . For ideas and inspiration check out www.discoverireland.ie
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