Prague is one of the oldest cities in Europe and for centuries it had been one of the cultural centres of the continent. Emerging from the shadow of the Iron Curtain during the Velvet Revolution in 1989, the city has reasserted itself as one of Europe’s top destinations with over 5 million people visiting each year.
These days the city is a byword for the most raucous stag and hen parties with thousands of drunken mischief makers descending on the city every weekend. If you let that put you off, it would be a real shame because Prague has so much to offer, with food and drink mingling in with historical and cultural landmarks and some of the best beer known to man.
The city itself is stunningly beautiful, with centuries of architecture rubbing up against the functional industrial buildings from the communist years. Oddly enough, they go quite well together and a great deal of pleasure can be had from just taking it all in. May to September is the time to visit and which sees the city in full bloom.
It’s impossible to mention Prague without mentioning beer in the same breath. Simply put, Beer is a cultural and historical cornerstone of the country with a brewing tradition going back as far as the 10th century and beer exports recorded as early as 1088.What this means for the visitor is a rich and vibrant pub culture that is home to some of the finest drinking experiences in the world.
From Budvar (the original Budweiser) to newer creations such as the smooth Velvet pilsner, having a pint in Prague is something to be savoured. It’s quite cheap too with prices that have sharply risen during the last couple of years but still come in as cheap as 20CZK for a .50l glass; that’s just 90 cent fact fans. Obviously the prices go up in the tourist areas but Czech establishments have a nice habit of displaying prices outside so if you feel the price is not right then all you have to do is move along.
Breakfast
While JOE would always recommend you sample the local food to get a real flavour of a place, a sausage heavy Czech breakfast can be a bit unpalatable for some. Fortunately the alternative is the Bohemia Bagel, an American style deli restaurant that regularly features in the top 5 places to eat in the city. Endless coffee is served with giant bagels filled with all the best brekkie goodness and while it’s a little bit expensive, the Wi-Fi is free and the people are friendly. All in all, it’s the perfect place to fuel up and plan the day ahead.
Morning to Mid-Day
One attraction that you should make an effort to visit is the John Lennon Wall. Originally a wall with a street painting of an Imagine era John Lennon that was done shortly after his death, the wall is a constantly evolving graffiti project that became a symbol of anti-establishment movements during the communist regime of the late 80s. The original Lennon portrait can no longer be seen as the authorities painted over it a number of times in an effort to stamp out dissent, but new portraits, messages, symbols and song lyrics immediately reappeared. The wall is unique; a marvel of political motivation and quite beautiful in its own right.
The Charles Bridge is impossible to miss given that it is the gateway to the more ancient part of the city. The bridge is worth exploring in its own right offering great views and a host of street vendors to get your souvenir fix.
The Dancing House is a good excuse to get the camera out. Nicknamed by the locals as “the drunken buildingâ€, it’s a marvel of modern architecture and was modelled on an image of Fred Astaire and Ginger Rodgers and has to be seen to be believed.
Anyone looking to take a few panoramic shots of the city should get over to the TV Tower. A relic from the communist era, the tower is the highest point in the city and has a spectacular view .Not that the view will catch your eye first because as part of an art exhibition the tower now has giant babies crawling all over it. Again just go, enjoy and scratch your head at the oddness of it all.
Afternoon and Early Evening
No trip to Prague can be called complete without experiencing a beer hall which will allow you sample the best beers and traditional food that the city has to offer. Some of the newer places such as U Vejuodu in the Old Town are typical tourist traps and can be filled to bursting with stag and hen nights. A far better bet is to seek out one of the more traditional places where the travellers are mixed in with the locals in equal measure. One such place is the U Fleku, a 500-year-old establishment that serves excellent traditional Czech goulash with some amazing beers that are brewed on site. The place itself is cavernous and features a number of large rooms decked out in an appealingly kitsch†Olde Worlde†fashion. Everything served is tasty and reasonably priced but be prepared for some hilariously awful service, which far from ruining the experience, actually adds to the overall charm.
It’s well worth tracking down a microbrewery, such as the Strahov – one of around 80 across the Czech Republic.
Dinner
Although the local food is tasty enough, it can go a little heavy on the stomach, particularly if you have been busy sampling the local beer. JOE’s advice is to treat yourself to a meal in the best restaurant in the city: The Bellvue. Overlooking the river and the Charles Bridge this is a top class French restaurant and if you are in the mood for culture bookings can be made that will include some opera and a chauffeur driven car to get you there.
Another great choice is La Cambusa, a seafood restaurant with a distinctly Italian flavour and is consistently listed in the top five places to eat in the city. Lobsters, oysters, scallops, cuttlefish and calamari are all on the menu and if you really want to treat yourself it has some very affordable caviar.
After Hours
Just like any other popular destination, Prague has been cursed with an abundance of Irish bars and for the most part they are exactly what you would expect; full of drunken eejits faced with more cheap beer than they know what to do with. Thankfully there is an exception that proves this rule in the most unlikely paddy pub you will have ever seen.
O’Che’s is a fusion of Irish food, Czech beer and Cuban atmosphere with the iconic Guevara imagery draped over every surface. It’s all quite understated. Parties start early and finish late and offer the traveller a chance to revel with both local and tourist alike (along with a bit of familiarity for the homesick). Day parties are also catered for which include the opportunity to fire off a few rounds from an AK47!
Any of you who are serious about nightclubs and dance music will do well to get over to the Karlovy Lazne. The self proclaimed “largest nightclub in Europe†is housed in a seven-story building and offers four floors of all night partying with each new floor you visit completely different from the last, mixing in everything from electronic to 70s funk. The mix of tourist and local is just right but if you do go, try not to be too shocked by the clubs popularity with the local teens as the age restrictions seem to be a little lax.
More Time
Due to the age of many of the towns and villages outside of Prague, any day trips will probably include a heavy dose of historical sightseeing. Highlights include the 14th century fortress of Karlstejn Castle, the former WW2 Jewish ghetto of Terezin and if you are into your fishing, one and two day trips up the River Vltava are particularly good value.
The Lowdown…
Where
The city sits on the Vltava River in the Bohemian region of the country and is home to 1.9 million people. The climate is pretty diverse, offering four distinct seasons that see heavy snowfalls in the winter and temperatures of up to 35 degrees in the height of summer.
Currency
The currency in use is the Czech Koruna or Crown and the exchange rate at the moments will give you 25CZK to the Euro. Make sure to have some local currency when you arrive as the euro will not be accepted by taxi drivers.
Getting There
Flights to Prague depart from Dublin and Cork. For the best value on price it’s hard to fault an €99 return flight from Ryanair that includes taxes and charges. Ruzyně International Airport serves Prague and is about 20km away from the city centre. Taxi is by far the easiest way to get to and from the airport but if you choose convenience then expect to pay for the privilege as city taxi drivers are notorious for overcharging tourists. Prices can vary wildly between 500 and 1000CZK so don’t be afraid to haggle and always, always have a price agreed before you get into the cab.
Where to Stay
The budget conscious among you are catered for in the Clown and Card hostel that has double rooms with en-suite bathrooms for around €40 a night.
Looking for something more upmarket then you won’t do much better than Hotel Pariz, a luxury place in the centre of the city. The 1920s decor drips opulence and will have you feeling suitable decadent when you pay for your room which start at €200 a night and ends… well if you have to ask then you can’t afford it.
If it’s a romantic retreat you’re after then the Hotel U Raka is perfect with its cosy ambiance and luxury extras. The hotel’s staff are great, all speaking excellent English and regularly pulling out the stops to ensure your stay is memorable. Best of all for those that want a bit of peace and quiet is the ban on children under 12, so there will be nothing to interrupt you.
For Herself
Whichever way you cut it, the shopping in Prague just isn’t up to much and has a long way to go in order to compete with other European cities. But if you don’t mind the 2 hour trip you should bring her to Karlovy Vary, a spa town 130km west of the capital. Full spa treatments are available with the use of the natural thermal springs that are sure to make her feel suitably pampered. If this kind of relaxation is not your thing, then the town offer a variety of historical attractions and if you visit in June you will see the town awash with celebrities during the Czech International Film Festival. Stalking or autograph hunting, the choice is hers.
Leo Stiles
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